A Winemaker’s Reflection on Wine’s Slump and the Path Ahead
After decades in the cellar, Tony Coturri reflects on why the market is struggling and how the industry can move forward.”
Written by Tony Coturri
Every few decades, the wine industry faces a reckoning. Today, we find ourselves in one of those moments. Sales are down, tasting rooms are quieter, and producers everywhere are asking tough questions about what’s changed and what comes next. Natural wine, once a rallying cry for authenticity, now competes with a flood of alternative beverages like canned cocktails, kombuchas and THC-infused seltzers. At the same time, a new generation of drinkers is redefining what they drink, and more importantly, why they drink it. It’s tempting to view these shifts with frustration or anxiety, especially for those of us who have spent decades refining our craft. But history reminds us that wine has endured through empires, plagues, Prohibition, and economic upheaval. It will survive this moment too, if we’re willing to evolve.
Understanding the Current Slump
The challenges facing today’s wine market aren’t the result of a single factor. They’re the product of multiple forces converging at once. Years of vineyard expansion during boom times have left the industry with more fruit than buyers. At the same time, changing consumer preferences, driven by a generation raised on craft beer, cocktails, and convenience, have shifted the focus away from complexity toward flavor, simplicity, and transparency. The field has also become crowded. More producers are entering the market each year, intensifying competition in an already saturated space.
While the rise of natural wine has introduced a wave of creative innovation, not all wines bearing the “natural” label meet expectations for balance, stability, or drinkability. These quality inconsistencies have, in some cases, damaged trust and diluted the message. Adding to the difficulty is the shifting landscape of wine distribution. Consolidation among wholesalers and retailers has left little room for small, independent producers who don’t fit neatly into large portfolios. The result is a market that feels squeezed from every direction and a sense that doing things the old way may no longer be enough.
The Three Pillars of Winery Success
In my 46 years as a winemaker, I’ve watched countless wineries rise and fall. The ones that thrive, even through volatile markets, tend to be built on three fundamental pillars. First, farming: honoring the vineyard, the soil, and the season with care and attention. Second, winemaking: stewarding the fruit honestly, without unnecessary manipulation or shortcuts. And third, sales and connection: building meaningful, long-term relationships with customers and sharing the stories behind the wine. Today, it’s that third pillar, sales and connection, that demands more focus than ever. It’s no longer enough to simply make good wine and hope people will find it. We need to meet our customers where they are, speak their language, and offer experiences that go beyond the glass. That’s the work ahead of us.
The Path Forward: Action and Adaptation
One of the most critical shifts we can make is to fully embrace direct-to-consumer sales. Traditional distribution channels are no longer the reliable growth engines they once were, especially for small producers. Selling directly, through wine clubs, events, online platforms and personal outreach, offers not only a revenue stream but also a path toward deeper loyalty and resilience. It’s about reinforcing connections through thoughtfully curated experiences, accessible websites, and consistent, authentic communication.
In this age of digital saturation, presence matters. Whether it’s a tasting, a pop-up or a small vineyard tour, every opportunity to connect in person becomes a way to foster community and trust. These interactions give people more than just a product, they offer a glimpse into the human side of winemaking: the struggles, the craftsmanship, and the celebration of tradition.
Equally important is the story behind the bottle. A wine’s value today extends beyond its varietal or AVA. Customers, especially younger ones, want to know who made it, why it was made this way and what the producer stands for. Transparency and meaning have become essential currencies in the modern wine world, and storytelling is the bridge that connects intention to loyalty. It’s not a marketing gimmick, it’s a path to relevance.
Rethinking the Wines We Make
As we look ahead, we also have to reexamine the wines themselves. Wines should still be alive and energetic, but they also need to be delicious, approachable, and satisfying to drink. Balance and pleasure matter. So does honesty. If a wine is unfined, unfiltered, or fermented with native yeast, we should say so clearly but we also need to make sure that what’s in the glass brings joy, not just ideology. At the heart of it all, we must return to the fundamentals: sound farming, thoughtful cellar work and integrity at every step. These principles never go out of style. They form the foundation that sustains great wine through every market cycle.
A Future Built on Resilience
The wine world is not ending, it’s evolving. We are entering a new era where authenticity, transparency, and human connection will matter more than ever. The wineries that endure will be the ones that step forward, adapt with intention, and build direct, meaningful relationships with people who share their values.
It’s not enough to make great wine. We must also show up with humility and consistency. We must be willing to innovate where it makes sense, and remain grounded in what’s always made wine worth sharing: connection, care, and craft.
Wine has always been a story of resilience. Of seasons turning. Of vines enduring. Of hands working the soil, year after year. Now, it’s our turn to carry that story forward. We are winemakers. Builders. Stewards. Storytellers. And the world is still thirsty for what we do, if we’re willing to meet the moment with open hands and a full heart.